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-   -   10-2-d Strong double Action Grip (http://www.lynnblakegolf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4902)

davel 07-13-2007 04:48 PM

10-2-d Strong double Action Grip
 
I hear over and over on other forums that the so called Strong Grip should not be used. Arguments are you can not control your clubface with the various hinging actions and the loss of # 3 power accumalator is significant in distance.

I argue for some people it is a good grip because it avoids the complexities of the roll to the plane on the back swing and the cock and unroll on the forward swing. I feel it is easier to avoid the dreaded club head flip. As for loss in distance there are just too many long distance(less #3 accumulator) golfers that had strong grips that just does not hold water (daly,couples,duval etc.). It is also easier to square the clubface. Also the pros with strong grips can work the ball as good as any of their peers with neutral grips.

My geralization is that it is not necessarily the best for everyone but for some (seniors,juniors, beginners) it can simplify learning the golf swing and playing the game at a adequate level in shorter period of time.

I am interested in the pros and cons of what I have said since a number of instructors encounter a slicer with a neutral grip. They then will work with that player numerous years and never correct the slice.When the instructors are not around I have them strengthen their grip and have them hitting a draw or straight shot in 5 minutes and their distance increases as well.


Dave

12 piece bucket 07-15-2007 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davel (Post 43911)
I hear over and over on other forums that the so called Strong Grip should not be used. Arguments are you can not control your clubface with the various hinging actions and the loss of # 3 power accumalator is significant in distance.

I argue for some people it is a good grip because it avoids the complexities of the roll to the plane on the back swing and the cock and unroll on the forward swing. I feel it is easier to avoid the dreaded club head flip. As for loss in distance there are just too many long distance(less #3 accumulator) golfers that had strong grips that just does not hold water (daly,couples,duval etc.). It is also easier to square the clubface. Also the pros with strong grips can work the ball as good as any of their peers with neutral grips.

My geralization is that it is not necessarily the best for everyone but for some (seniors,juniors, beginners) it can simplify learning the golf swing and playing the game at a adequate level in shorter period of time.

I am interested in the pros and cons of what I have said since a number of instructors encounter a slicer with a neutral grip. They then will work with that player numerous years and never correct the slice.When the instructors are not around I have them strengthen their grip and have them hitting a draw or straight shot in 5 minutes and their distance increases as well.


Dave

I'm sorting this out too as I'm a 10-2-D guy. Bottom line the flat left wrist's basis of the flail is the relationship of the left ARM and the clubshaft . . . NOT the left wrist. So with a 10-2-B grip you will SEE flat . .. but with 10-2-D for the shaft to be in line with the left arm you MUST have cock AND BEND . . . top and swivel.

I think the release motion in must comply with your Grip Type and other components must comply with your grip type. For every player somebody puts up with a "neutral" grip you can counter with one that was just as good with a "strong" grip. End of the day you keep the shaft in line with the left arm.

AND with a strong grip you DO have #3 angle. It's not zeroed out. Just because you don't have as much "rolling" with 10-2-D doesn't mean that you don't get the power . . . it's there. The dudes you listed above are LONG!!! The true mechanical advantage is in extending the radius and geting ramped up surface speed. Not rolling.


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