ok...been practicing for about 2 hours now, i have seemed to cut the shaft down to 33" from 35" and added 5 quarters in the head, doesnt that seem alot? just checking. i tried adding 2-3-4-5-6-7-8 quarters, and play with 31-35" inches for the grip, to me 5 and 33" seems to keep things with more feel and under balance.
ok...been practicing for about 2 hours now, i have seemed to cut the shaft down to 33" from 35" and added 5 quarters in the head, doesnt that seem alot? just checking. i tried adding 2-3-4-5-6-7-8 quarters, and play with 31-35" inches for the grip, to me 5 and 33" seems to keep things with more feel and under balance.
I don't think $1.25 is all that much, but I don't know your financial situation. It really comes down to what feels the best and allows you to put the most consistent stroke on the ball. Bottom line, if you make more putts that is what counts.
Putting is about divide and conquer. Build a consistent stroke = half the equation solved. Learn to read greens; now you know where it will go and how it will get there. Put them together and sub-30 putt rounds become the norm.
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Steph
Distance is Magic; Precision is Practice.
I yanked the shaft out of my Yes C-Groove Callie (Anser style), glued in a 10gm shaft weight plug into the tip, re-glued and then cut the overall length to 32". Works like a charm.
Golf Stroke Geometry does not change with the choice of Club. With the Ball positioned behind Low Point, Impact optimally will be Three-Dimensional, i.e., Down, Out and Forward. Impact occuring after Low Point will result in an Upstroke Motion and Compression Leakage (2-J-2).
Thanks for your advice Yoda! Your comments go contrary to what a lot of putting 'gurus' who don't understand the Three Dimensional Impact recommend -- a slightly ascending Clubhead after Impact which necessitates a ball position in front of Low Point. Although the price tag for Compression Leakage in putting isn’t as big as with hitting a driver, there’s still a price to pay!