Me too - in one way. But I have been shown what to do and work on - there is hardly any more to ask about. Just do it. Anyway the theoretical was never my strengh. I enjoy much more how this is done in the real work, without most of TGM jargong.. My bad, but the proof is in the pudding. When the golf season starts in a month's time- I'll find out how it tastes..
My last real guestion was:
How does one differentiate between a (10¤) Driver, a (15¤) 3W and a (19¤) Hybrid? When does one use which club?
Thank you for that wonderful answer - that sure was a big help - for one who has no experience with a 3 wood. On the other hand I have some experience with you.
BTW: The sound you heard was not intentional on my part - so it must be something in your own ears...
Thank you for that wonderful answer - that sure was a big help - for one who has no experience with a 3 wood. On the other hand I have some experience with you.
BTW: The sound you heard was not intentional on my part - so it must be something in your own ears...
Well, you've lost me.
There's no difference between any club (Length and Loft). Geometry of the Circle. Clubs are tools. They're extensions. If you can swing one of them correctly, then you can swing them all.
My wish is that if you want to give me an answer (which I appreciate) is to do it so elementary and thorough as you are capable of - if you feel it is worth your while - or just ignore my questions - if there are any more..
How does one differentiate between a (10¤) Driver, a (15¤) 3W and a (19¤) Hybrid? When does one use which club?
This is how I differentiate the three clubs:
I have a driver with specs that (ideally) gives me the longest possible distance off the tee, carry and roll combined. Also it is important for me to have a face angle (open / neutral /closed)that fits with how I address the ball.
When I get on the wrong side of ca 135 meters, the approach shot gets increasingly more difficult. So if I can only get inside 135 with a driver I use a driver - unless there's a high risk involved.
The three wood probably has around 15 yards shorter carry of the tee and far less roll. It is also the longest club I have from fariway lies.
The 5 wood is the longest club in my bag that has something near a stop & drop performance on the green - and thus reasonably good distance control. I don't hesitate to use a 3 wood towards a green if there's room for a lot of roll - and I can get about the same result with a 3 wood with a little breeze into my face as a windstill 5 wood, but if I need a precise carry, 5 wood is usually the longest club I have from the fairway.
I have a hybrid that covers the 3-4 iron region. It also works reasonably well from light rough from around 150-160 meters. I also use the 5 wood from rough if I need some distance.
The rest of the bag - except the putter - is there to cover the spectrum from 75 - 165 meters full shot. I don't really care how far I hit a 6 iron as long as I have a good trajectory and a predictable distance.
But I do care how far I hit the driver, the 3 wood and the 5 wood, because all of them are my max distance option in different situation.
I am very picky about woods and hybrids. Lie angle, face angle and the shaft must fit the golfer. And getting the right gear here can make you a better golfer. The same goes with irons, but I find it much easier to get a reasonable fit there.
When was the last time someone invented a new school of mathematics to support his observations of "the way things work"?
Ain't happened.
Today, three centuries later, golfers everywhere ignore those laws, and their high handicaps evidence their ignorance.
Air is a born educator and a retired professional teacher. He is a curious and ardent explorer of many things, not the least of which is his own golf stroke. In this regard, he respects and seeks valued help along the way. Help that precedes -- and augments -- the work he does "on his own".
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