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O give me a home, where Bucket can roam.
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As far as picking on Bucket, you will have to do it over "O's" dead body :naughty: . Now, BJ and Cp, you were saying...&C |
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Well since O's not here anymore....it's time to go after Colonel Slanders!
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I would suggest that what you think is 10-2-B is perhaps more towards 10-2-A, and that this can require the type of turn/roll you mention. Per 10-2-B the left thumb and #3 PP are on the 'aft' side of the shaft, for "on plane" impact support. That is a more turned position that the standard training grip you see on many aids would put you in. See the photo of Homer that Mike O has in in signature, or in the gallery. To find this position for your left hand, it really is exactly how your left hand hangs naturally at your side. For some that is more turned than for others, but in my case it is at about 45 degrees, not at vertical, or fully turned, as in 10-2-D. From that position, hanging naturally at your side, lift the left arm straight up to shoulder high. Seeing the left shoulder hinge pin just like a door, and not turning or rolling your hand at all, move your arm back and forth on the horizontal plane. That is your horizontal hinge motion, on the horizontal plane. On the angled plane of a swing, that will still have a feel of turn and roll, but you will find it much easier to keep your Rhythm, and square up at impact. As to the advantages or disadvantages to 10-2-D, it is a very helpful way to learn clubhead control, and most beginners would benefit from at least trying it to learn to lean the shaft forward at impact and hit downplane. It does have somewhat of a power loss IMO over 10-2-B, because you are removing the advantages of accumulator #3 (turn and roll). It is also best used for a fade. |
EdZ
Thanks for commenting. Very interesting post. I used to have a 10-2-B grip that was more like 10-2-A, but I have recently adopted your suggestion of ensuring that the left thumb is on the aft side of the club. I do agree that a 10-2-B grip allows the left hand to roll-over naturally into a horizontal hinging action post-impact. I presume that this natural roll-over action is more difficult with a 10-2-D grip, which would predispose to angled/vertical hinging and a fade. I never though about the other potential advantage of a 10-2-B grip - that the natural roll over action allows for a better use of PA#3 transfer power. That's a good point. Considering all these advantages to a 10-2-B grip, wouldn't it be the "best" grip choice for most golfers? Are there any major disadvantages? What about hitters - is there a "best" grip choice for hitters? Jeff |
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That said, 10-2-A, in all but ideal alignments and rhythm, requires you to 'do' something to square up, which most folks don't (hence why they slice given the 'training' grip). 10-2-B still requires that hinge action, the closing door, to ensure a square face, less power than A, but more than D. the happy medium. Its limitation is that most people steer, so the door still never closes. 10-2-D takes care of squaring up, but at a power loss, and potential direction loss for swingers. The best choice for learning to hit, because you can simply thrust the right arm paddle wheel at the aiming point with a bent right wrist. Since hitters don't use #3. So with A - better to swing with B - you can do either and with D - hitting is a safer bet for control |
Ed,
Excellent post! Thank you for a great learning experience. Jeff. |
10-2-D, or not to 10-2-D
World class summary, Edz! Does anybody have any idea how Duval and Couples, Daly (I meekly submit they use more of a 10-2-D) overcome the power reduction that 10-2-D represents for most, due to no transfer power. I use a 10-2-B, but all the long hitters I know have a turned left hand! :sad2:
Again, fantastic summary! |
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