I'm new to TGM so this may be a dumb question; if so, forgive me. I understand why a hitter would want an aiming point, but why would a swinger? If the whole idea is to just let the ball get in the way of swing why would you have an aiming point?
Aiming point is the "physics of delivery paths" . . . so what the heck does that mean? well basically it's how you can control when the club "throws out" . . . it's a personal thing really . . and it can have a lot to do with the length of the club . . . for instance I see a lot of "machinist" guys who are into the machine big time (LIKE ME!!!) who have this affection for "accumulator lag" . . . that Hogan laggy look . . . there is a "picture of what's happening" and then there is a procedure . . . I can promise you ben hogan wasn't doing any "holding on" . . .he set a lot of angle but he DUMPED it . . . slung it out of there . . . this is why it is a personal deal . . . you may be a cat that "dumps it" to the point where you have "shot your proverbial load" early . . .so you may need to have a more "forward" aiming point . . . or you could be a cat like me . . . who watch Ben Doyle's tapes . . . tried to get his right elbow infront of his navel and NEVER DUMPED ANYTHING . . . something you can experiment with . . . hard to say without knowing what you do . . . people want to achieve a leaning shaft . . . I'm all for that . . .but WHAT IS THE CORRECT AMOUNT? Do you want tons of shaft lean with a 3 iron? As the clubs get longer generally you are moving your aiming point back . . .to account for the amount of time it takes for them to get "in line". So it's kind of about when you allow the club to begin the process of "getting in line" . . . you want to extend the radius . . . but you want to do it in a way that allows you to bring speed about consistently and on plane at the proper time to deliver the club in an arc that doesn't disturb low point that you can control . . . everybody wants this snap release . . . is that always the ideal? Is that going to bring about the best results for YOU . . . CONSISTENTLY? For me I'm not sure it is ideal . . . I had my aiming point soooo far forward that the club never really had a chance to overtake and my hands get pulled out over the plane with the clubhead too under . . . balls can go EVERYWHERE . . . watch what you wish for . . .
I totally agree about what you say about shaft lean. Being able to manipulate that is an important part of shot making though.
" ... to account for the time of them to get in line.."
This applies mostly to driveloading, no?
If you're a swinger with pure CF, the aiming point will only account for where the swing path is pointing at impact. The left wrist is then truly CF flat at impact regardless of where you locate your aiming point.
The side spin will be determined by the overtaking rate at imapct, and adjustments to the grip; Everything else will stay the same. So I think I understand the basis for this question.
My goto high draw with some distance is a pure CF swing where I place the aiming point quite some distance before the ball. If I struggle with poor dynamics I aim on the plane line, but away from the target. That's right. Aiming town right when the ball is supposed to go up and left. It prevents an independend arms swing and let the pivot carry the arms instead. It reinforces a sequenced and late release with late pp#3 rotation and reinforces a lot of things that are good for impact dynamics.
It took a while before I figured out that putting the ball back in the stance and just take a swing at it didn't produce a low ball flight at all. I had to to add some finesse - blend in some driveloading to manipulate the height of the ball flight and / or some pivot finesse to manipulate the hinge acction. The I work the ball the more important the aiming point gets.
I usually think more of the clubhead than what is recommended in TGM, but when it comes to aiming point, it is lot about the hands; Where I direct the hands and the lag presure I want to feel in the hands when I get there.
I totally agree about what you say about shaft lean. Being able to manipulate that is an important part of shot making though.
" ... to account for the time of them to get in line.."
This applies mostly to driveloading, no?
If you're a swinger with pure CF, the aiming point will only account for where the swing path is pointing at impact. The left wrist is then truly CF flat at impact regardless of where you locate your aiming point.
The side spin will be determined by the overtaking rate at imapct, and adjustments to the grip; Everything else will stay the same. So I think I understand the basis for this question.
My goto high draw with some distance is a pure CF swing where I place the aiming point quite some distance before the ball. If I struggle with poor dynamics I aim on the plane line, but away from the target. That's right. Aiming town right when the ball is supposed to go up and left. It prevents an independend arms swing and let the pivot carry the arms instead. It reinforces a sequenced and late release with late pp#3 rotation and reinforces a lot of things that are good for impact dynamics.
It took a while before I figured out that putting the ball back in the stance and just take a swing at it didn't produce a low ball flight at all. I had to to add some finesse - blend in some driveloading to manipulate the height of the ball flight and / or some pivot finesse to manipulate the hinge acction. The I work the ball the more important the aiming point gets.
I usually think more of the clubhead than what is recommended in TGM, but when it comes to aiming point, it is lot about the hands; Where I direct the hands and the lag presure I want to feel in the hands when I get there.
maybe . . . . still gotta account for pulley diameter . . . cf works on big wheels as well as small wheels no?
This is my 1st post. Is the Homer Kelly book really hard to understand? If so is their a way to simplify it?
Hi, i'm new to The Golfing Machine too. I think we can probably find a good deal of improvement by understanding some of the basics without the need to understand the whole book. Kev advised me that these are the basics (below) & a good starting point. I think we also need to learn these basics in miniature first (called basic motion) - check it out in the video section, have you watched all the videos yet ?
THE G.O.L.F. SWING IS:
1) THE HINGE ACTION = Clubface Control
2) Of an ANGULAR MOTION = Club head Control
3) On an INCLINED PLANE = Club shaft Control
THE IMPERATIVES ARE:
1) A “Flat” Left Wrist
2) A Club head Lag Pressure Point
3) A Straight Plane Line
THE ESSENTIALS ARE:
1) A Stationary Head
2) Balance
3) Rhythm
THE MACHINE CONTROLS THREE FUNCTIONS
1) The Inclined Plane is CLUBSHAFT Control – See 2-F and 4-0
2) The Pressure Points are CLUBHEAD Control – See 2-K and 4-0
3) The Left Wrist is CLUBFACE Control – See 2-G and 4-0
THE THREE STATIONS OF THE MACHINE
1) ADDRESS - be as prepared as possible
2) THE TOP - be as precise as possible
3) THE FINISH - be as smooth and complete as possible through Impact to the Finish
THE STAR SYSTEM TRIAD
1) ·The THREE IMPERATIVES (2-0)
2) ·Controlling the THREE FUNCTIONS (1-L-A/B/C)
3) ·Through the THREE STATIONS (12-3)
Your conception of the book will determine it's utility for you.
Originally Posted by Smooth Move
This is my 1st post. Is the Homer Kelly book really hard to understand? If so is their a way to simplify it?
I think of the book as an encyclopedic handbook, much like my old Boy Scout Field Manual. I look up something and get a bunch of neat other ideas. Then I search the topic here in the "search" section and watch any related videos which might apply. And, I ask related questions of the really good players here, including Mr. Blake, aka, "Yoda."
Welcome!
ICT
__________________
HP, grant me the serenity to accept what I cannot change, the courage to change what I can, and the wisdom to know the difference. Progress and not perfection is the goal every day!
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